Sinéad Wells: 10. Pleating

A pleat (older plait) is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place.

Issey Miyake

There is numerous different types of pleating and the 7 I'm going to discuss in my blog today are:

Knife Pleat, Box Pleat, Inverted Pleat, Partial Pleat, Projecting Pleat, Accordion Pleat, Wrinkled Pleat.

1. Knife Pleating

Knife pleats are used for basic gathering purposes, and form a smooth line rather than springing away from the seam they have been gathered to. The pleats have a 3:1 ratio–three inches of fabric will create one inch of finished pleat. Knife pleats can be recognized by the way that they overlap in the seam.

Viktor and Rolf

Karen Walker

2. Box Pleating

Box pleats are knife pleats back-to-back, and have a tendency to spring out from the waistline. They have the same 3:1 ratio as knife pleats, and may also be stacked to form stacked box pleats. These stacked box pleats create more fullness and have a 5:1 ratio. They also create a bulkier seam. Inverted box pleats have the "box" on the inside rather than the outside.

Orla Kiely

Kate Middleton wearing an Orla Kiely Box Pleated skirt.

The box pleats are around the neckline and the side of this dress.

Marc Jacobs Fall 2012

3. Accordion Pleats

Accordion pleating is a form of tight pleating which allows the garment to expand its shape when moving. Accordion pleating is also used for some dress sleeves, such as pleating the end of the elbow, with the fullness of the pleat gathered closely at the cuff.